You'd have to rip 2 X 4 studs one inch to shim each existing wall stud. Like you mentioned, 3/4" plaster and 1/4" lath,Įach stud would have to be shimmed 1-inch. The broken plaster during demolition will accumulate behind the moldings in between the studs.Įxtra clean out work, but lots of money saved from buying replacement wood moldings. The plaster was cut above the molding with a reciprocating saw and circular saw with settings not to cut into the studs.Īfter the new sheetrock was installed, a decorative style of molding was used to cover the exposed plaster and lath behind the molding and the new sheetrock.Īccess for new plumbing, electrical, and insulation are not a problem because the maximum heights of the old wood moldings were 7-1/2 inches. I have seen plaster and lath wall replacements without removing the old moldings. In that case, I've used wood glue and clamps for that repair. Pulling the boards from one end only, is often likely to break. The trick to careful removal of the old moldings are to delicately start at one end with a pry bar, lever or pry the board about 1/4", then move down the board in 12" increments to the end, then start over. Good luck with whichever option you choose!There is no doubt, the wood moldings and casings are going to be brittle after 90 years. I think it'll come down to how much time and work you want to put in to fix it up or how much you're willing to pay a contractor to do all that for you. It was a PITA, took a little longer and more expensive but it got done right. Insulated all the outer walls and between ceiling / attic.Īpartment got done right and got top $$ for rent. There was no insulation in majority of the outer walls or between ceiling and attic. All that crap filled a 30 yard container. Redoing a 2 bedroom apartment on the 2nd floor, adding sheet rock on top of plaster, was a lot more weight going up on walls and ceiling, the old cracked crap was still there and just getting covered up.ĭecided to rip EVERYTHING out, walls, ceilings etc. When I do things, I like to do them right the 1st time and not worry about things. Got quotes from 4 contractors, 3 of the 4 recommended sheet rock over the plaster and ceilings. Touching it would fall and you could see lathing. Some rooms looked OK, other's not so much. Tenant passed and after all his stuff was cleared out, started surveying what needed to get done. I was in the same predicament about 2 years ago.Īn apartment we had a tenant in for many many years, was like walking into the 60's. Hope this helps you answer your initial question I'm no pro.but I've made many mistakes "fixing" my old house. You'll still break heads off & sometimes drive through the 1/4" sheet, but, all in all, much less often. Mark the stud locations, use 1-5/8" coarse screws and a driver with the clutch locked. you Can put 1/4" drywall directly to plaster. Using furring is often the fastest way to establish good, workable nailing surfaces, especially when using thin drywall.īut. This madness may explain some high estimates you're getting. ( set for a normal stud, the clutch disengages too early when driving into a dense stud - set for a dense stud, it drives the screwhead through the drywall before it disengages.) Let's skip focusing on the screwheads you break off and realize how inconsistent stud density plays havoc with drywall gun clutches. you discover that those 80-120 year old studs have dried to different densities, some being firm and many like iron. ~ Now you get smart and find & mark the actual studs and get rolling and feel great. Result :: numerous holes from backing out screws which didn't hold & sink splitting and not holding is a 50/50 chance. ~ As far as the old lathe under the plaster holding the screw & sinking. actually the screwing and getting the screw head dimpled into the drywall. problem with drywall over plaster centers on the screws. I found a wall where they put up firring over the horsehair followed by 3/8 drywall.
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